A Day in Madrid
Originally from Spain, Alvaro Quintanilla Esparcia’s global career has seen him work across both BAR Studio’s Melbourne and Madrid studios. Now based back in the Spanish capital, what excites him about the city’s architecture and streetscapes?
Palacio de Cristal in El Retiro Park. Photo by Alvaro Quintanilla Esparcia.
“Everything. The scale of the city, its materiality, the detailing, the mix of past and present, history and contemporary elements, all kinds of styles harmoniously intertwined,” says Alvaro. “I could talk about Madrid’s architecture for hours.”
Madrid’s central neighbourhoods are all charming, including Chueca and Justicia, but the Barrio de las Letras (or Literary Quarter) is particularly worth a visit. “Once home to writers of the Spanish Golden Age, it stands out for its pedestrian streets, traditional shops and lively atmosphere, particularly around Calle de las Huertas, where the nightlife is always buzzing.”
For a tranquil spot for a walk, head to pretty El Retiro Park, with its lakeside monument to Alfonso XII and 19th-century conservatory Crystal Palace – an architectural jewel hosting temporary exhibitions as part of Museo Reina Sofía’s programme.
2019's Charles Ray exhibition at Palacio de Cristal. Photo by Alvaro Quintanilla Esparcia.
On Sunday mornings, wander the streets of open-air flea market El Rastro in La Latina, searching for treasures, browsing, haggling and discovering bargains from vintage prints to limited-edition lamps.
Among Madrid’s many architectural landmarks, don’t miss the city’s iconic Brutalist buildings of the 60s and 70s, such as Francisco Javier Sáenz de Oiza’s Torres Blancas, Javier Carvajal’s Torre de Valencia, and the works of Fernando Higueras including Edificio Princesa, La Corona de Espinas (Spanish Cultural Heritage Institute) and underground house ‘Rascainfiernos’ (by appointment only).
La Corona de Espinas by Fernando Higueras. Photo by Alvaro Quintanilla Esparcia.
Design hunters may be pleasantly surprised by Madrid. “In the past, anyone design-oriented thought of Barcelona as the place to be or go,” says Alvaro. “But now Madrid is having a moment, with its authenticity, distinctly Spanish character and openness as a city that welcomes everyone.”
Discover Alvaro’s top art and design destinations in the city.
Five Art & Design Finds in Madrid
1. A must-visit museum in the city centre, the Museo ICO is dedicated to architecture and urban design, with a strong focus on Spanish architects and designers.
2. Beside the Retiro Park, the Museo Nacional de Artes Decorativas has many interesting pieces, with a permanent collection and temporary exhibitions.
3. Private art collection Fundación Juan March, in the Salamanca district, hosts exhibitions, concerts and lectures, with a sculpture garden, library, store and café.
4. A favourite design shop, Amarcord, in Salamanca, offers stationery, retro-inspired accessories and vintage pieces, but without the usual ‘posh’ feel.
5. El Moderno, a concept store in Malasaña, sells original, elegant pieces by local and international designers, from home decor to graphic art and jewellery.
Eat & Drink
Traditional bar La Dolores in Centro is a must – having a caña and a tapa (small glass of draft beer and a snack) while standing in the middle of the crowd is part of the experience.
If you’re visiting the Museo ICO, stop by Casa González, a small hidden gem of a restaurant in the Barrio de las Letras that feels like stepping back in time. At El Rastro, as lunch approaches find a spot for tapas and wine – Café Pavón, El Capricho Extremeño, Aceitunas Jiménez, Bar Santurce and Taberna Almería are all local favourites.